Sushi chef Bun Lai has a taste for the beach. He grew up exploring the craggy shore and rocky isles of coastal Connecticut, a passion he’s carried with him into adulthood. A few years ago, Lai and a friend were flipping over rocks along Long Island Sound, just to see what lie underneath. He was expecting to find the same green crabs he’s known since his youth. But ‘all of a sudden, we saw these crabs I hadn’t seen before,’ he says. Lai caught some, brought them home, and looked them up.