The Issue

Hydrodynamic factors profoundly impact the environment of coastal areas. Wind waves, particularly waves associated with storms, are unpredictable and can pose dangerous situations under which to collect scientifically empirical, comparative information. Unfortunately, there are few simple–to–use, inexpensive tools that can provide a quantitative value of wave energy for locations not in the open ocean. Such a tool is needed by resource managers who need to estimate wave energy in coastal regions or in inland waters to gauge susceptibility of developed areas. This tool is also needed by scientists who desire a quantitative measure of wave effects to relate to ecosystem function.

Approach

CCFHR scientists have developed an easy-to-use numerical wave exposure model (WEMo) that uses linear wave theory to calculate actual wave height and derived wave energy while taking into consideration wind generation and local water depth characteristics such as shoaling and dissipation from breaking waves. WEMo also provides predictions of seafloor sediment movement.